The classical denim jeans
Here’s a chart of what I noticed and how I adjusted:
Knee notch too low | Shortened the pattern at the L/S line to get the knee notch higher (-5.5 cm) |
Back waistband plunging at center back
| Not enough room for the buttocks: releasing a bit at the seam allowance |
Horizontal lines under the buttocks | Low seat: changing the shape of the back cortch from the designed J to a L and lowering it a bit (-0.5 cm) |
Gaping at center back | Sway-back: shaving a triangle on the yoke (0.5 cm top down to 0) |
Extra fabric at knees | Genu valgum: I didn’t address that issue because I had not enough fabric to cut new legs! |
Front was almost perfect to my utmost surprise!

What’s more time-consuming when sewing pants are the sum of akterations neede. You have to proceed one cm after one cm and sew/unpick many times.
Many (video) tutorials are available, but you need to assess the fit first and see the faulty areas. Hearther, the designer, also gives you hints in the instructions about how to alter the pattern.
I know that I’ll need to modify the front a bit because there are lines there that shouldn’t be.
Sewing the jeans is not too long, even if you have to change threads multiple times for topstitching. I bought this set of topstitching threads and it was great. I didn’t use a topstiching needle, I used a Schmetz Denim size 100, I lowered the tension a bit, a straight stitch size 4, and the Accufeed foot of my Janome 6700P.
The back pockets design comes from the free booklet available on Closet Core Patterns’ website.

If you plan to sew some skinny Ginger, here are some fabrics* that may fit the bill in terms of stretch.