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Spring is around the corner and it can be a bit wet.
I wanted to sew another softshell jacket in a more muted tone than my pink Jalie.
So I chose to create a navy blue Andes* jacket.
The Andes pattern
I took advantages from a sale on the Itch to Stitch’s website* to buy the Andes jacket pattern*.
I love its seam details and princess seams. Both make the jacket stylish and a great canva for color-blocking (which I didn’t do because I’m rather bad at color-mixing!).
The back is slightly longer to protect our bums from the rain!
The hood is my favorite type of hood: it has 3 parts. Such hood stays in place gracefully and doesn’t flop down.
Meant for softshell, Andes* is an unlined jacket (except for the hood).
Softshell and mesh
Some notions that are usually underrated are prominent here…the ZIPPERS! Yes, the pockets are zippered and to get a balanced look, you will have to find zippers that are identical for the front opening and the pockets.
No metallic zipper allowed, only nylon coil because softshell is slightly flexible and a metallic zipper would be too stiff in my opinion.
Mesh* is rather easy to find. The one I used was a bit scratchy because not meant to be worn (think “grocery-bag” type of mesh). But it’s okay, I won’t put the hood too long on my head and the pockets are perfect in mesh.
The softshell* was gifted by Minerva. I’m always a bit wary concerning softshell because I usually have skipped stitches when topstitching. So I bought some Microtex needles*…but didn’t have to use them: this softshell was amazing to work with!
You can also press this softshell.
CAUTION: check the right temperature on scraps of sofshell. It’s plastci merely so a very low temperature is advised. Mine was slightly above the 1st dot. So realllllly low.
You will need to fuse some interfacing for the hem-facing. I chose G785* because:
- it’s lightweight and you don’t want a stiff facing
- it only requires a low temperature.
A rather traditional Andes rain jacket and its alterations
Since my softshell had no stretch, I chose to size up one size. Hence a size 8 bust graded to 10 at waist and hips.
I altered the shoulder length, as usual, and kepts the overall length.
Altering the shoulder length was a bit tricky due to the seam features. I placed the various pattern pieces involved in the shoulder seams together at the seam line and distributed the length I needed removed. Then I traced the new pieces.
I lengthened the sleeves by the amount I had taken at the shoulder (otherwise, my sleeves would have been too short).
The zippered pockets are not French-seamed and it left the raw edge…raw! Being mesh, I feared that they might unravel over time. A grey piece of binding was lonely in the almost-discarded notions box so I used it. I bound the edges on the spur of the moment and didn’t even change the thread color…!
All of the seams are topstitched with a zizag. I was really surprised by that, being accustomed to longer straight stitch for topstitching. The result is cute and would be awesome with constrasting thread.
The most difficult topstitiching line was the hood’s. I used some washed-away basting tape* to keep everything aligned. Don’t forget that, if using pins, you WILL HAVE TO pin them INSIDE the seam allowance. Otherwise, they will leave small holes.
The neckline is high and protects the neck perfectly.
I almost did a zipper garage, but I was afraid of the mutliple layers involved.
I think that this Andes jacket will be worn a lot during the week-ends. It’s traditional and the pop of the blue mesh on the hood and pockets makes it fun.
