Jalie’s 2795 pattern
This pattern should be sewn using stretch fabrics like sweatshirt knit with a minimum of 25% widthwise.
I totally went against this and took some non-stretchy softshell. It led to quite a number of modifications to adapt the pattern.
- Raglan sleeves
- Welt pockets
- Princess seams
- Option: hood
- Welt pockets
Going from a pattern meant for stretch fabrics to a garment out of non-stretch fabric may be tricky, notwithstanding the alterations for my own body shape.
From stretch to non-stretch
Disclaimer: it won’t work for all patterns!!! Make your own research to check if someone has already done it. I like perusing the Sewing Pattern Reviews or Minerva websites (hashtags #jalie2795 or #softshell).
Jalie already drafted a pattern for softshell, #2679, but I wanted the hood (sounded logical since I wanted a rain jacket).
So I took the 2795 pattern, looked at the size chart, and decided to upsize: from X-Y to Z-AA.
And…I did a muslin from stiff fabric, to check the fit.
First thing I noticed was a big pool of fabric above the butt. That could mean 2 things: either a sway-back adjustment or more room needed around the hips.
I opted to unpick all the side seams for 10 cm and the pool of fabric disappeared. Lesson learnt: more room at the hips so I went with a size BB there.
Wrists were tight so I added 0.5 cm to all of the pattern pieces.
Other modifications for #2795
Those were just for transforming the hoodie into a proper rain jacket.
I didn’t use the cuffs and band. I added some length to both sleeves and bodice to compensate (+11 cm).
Raglan sleeves are always tricky for fit on me because of my narrow square shoulders and tiny upper back. I did some drastic slashing in the pattern pieces! I took 2 cm off the raglan and 1.5 cm on the other pieces forming the armholes.
Instead of sewing the inner collar in softshell, I used some rib-knit. Very comfy and cute with this bubblegum pink color.
I had no experience with softshell beforehands. So I did my research once again.
Softshell is easy to cut with scissors or rotary cutter. I didn’t cut on the fold: I traced all of my pattern pieces on the wrong side to prevent shifting.
I used ALL of my needles to find the right one(s). They needed to sew multiple layers, topstitch, sew zipper tapes, etc. A size 90/14 needle was great on all of my smaples, but as soon as I tried sewing my real garment, it went awful! So I used a denim 100 needle for assembling and topstitching.
Softshell and seam-ripper are foes. Once sewn, ripping a seam on softshell will leave small needle holes. Trust me: I misplaced my welt pocket facing and had to unpick. I was lucky to have my needle holes hidden.
What do I think of this modified #2795?
Well, I’m pretty happy with it. I should have lengthneed the sleeves a bit more (+2 cm) and add a zipper garage since the zipper pull is a bit annoying.
I found the inner collar assembling a bit ‘cheap’. You just roll a hem inwards and stitch it by hand, as you would for a shirt collar stand.
Even if my sewing machine is powerful, some thick layers got the better of it.
For those with a big head or sporting a high ponytail/bun, you may find the hood tiny. I have short hait and a little head and it’s cosy!
I know that I could have sewn the hood from #2679 to #2795, but I didn’t want to buy another pattern( I have enough).
Have you ever sewn a rain coat/jacket? I’d love to hear from your experience about water-repllent fabrics.
I think that my next rain coat might be the I Am Jacques. It’s just the perfect Breton rain coat pattern.
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