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The Islares pattern
I have a strong tendency to wear again and again the knit tops I have bought years ago.
This Islares top* seems to be the answer to switching to homemade knit tops. It’s a PDF pattern available in sizes ranging from US 00 to 40. A FBA alteration is included for those needing it. You also have various sleeve length (short, 3/4, and long).
Its main feature is its square neckline. It’s really flattering.
I usually have troubles fitting raglan sleeves, but this pattern offers a dart at the shoulder curve. It makes fitting easier IMO.
Some heavy knit and Islares
I’ve been shelving this t-shirt cotton knit for years. I thought it would be good for this neckline, but, in all honesty, it’s a bit too stiff. I could have gone with a lighter, drapier fabric.
I did a bust 6 graded to 8 at waist and hips.
The neckline was sewn with the sewing machine, the other seams with the serger.
DO NOT stretch the neckline at any cost. That’s the trickiest part, as in the Brisbane top.
Darts are easily sewn at the shoulder curves and the effect they have on the fit is amazing.
The hem is curved at the high hips. I did a “high hips” alteration by simply shortening the top.
The only problem I had was machine-related. Hemming on stretchy fabrics is really hard for me. My Janome 1000 CPX covermachine is a nightmare to work with. I raised the feed dogs, I read and tested hundreds of things, changed needles to SUK… and it’s always popping, tunnelling, etc. I HATE IT!
So I used the double needle on my sewing machine and the result is not great as well.
Personal opinion
- A staple with a great neckline
- I’ll do the following alterations next time. They are really common for me: lowering the slop of the shoulder seam and shortening the upper back.
- I’ll start looking for a new coverstitch, but I have neither money nor envy !!!
