12 February 2023

Another STAN shirt

*This article may contain affiliate links.

This will be my second STAN shirt. After having tested it in a luscious wool crepe, I was eager to sew it in this beautiful viscose challis*.

I took exactly the same options because I loved them: size 42, bishop sleeves with slit finished with continuous binding, hidden button plakcte, and no pleat at the shoulder. All of the options are detailed in my first post.

I just lengthened the bodice a bit more (+2 cm) because I had shortened it too much the first time.

Viscose challis with kitties and tips to cut and sew

We are a cat-lover family. Our 5 indoor cats live happily with us so that means we have cat hair everywhere!

It doesn’t prevent me from sewing dark fabrics, such as this navy blue viscose challis, an exclusive design by Minerva*. The kitty print is not flashy, making the shirt easily wearable on a pair of denims or a pencil skirt (that I should sew…).

The drape is to fall for! The fabric is soft, but like any viscose, it needs to be handled carefully.

Here are my two favorite tips for cutting viscose:

after pre-washing it, starch it when pressing it. You can use store-bought starch or make your own mix (I’ve never done it, but there are plenty of recipes available).
when it’s time to cut, use a rotary cutter*, a self-healing mat (as big as possible, mine is similar to this one*, but size is A1), some pattern weights* (tins work a charm!), and do not cut on the fold to prevent fabric from shifting. A single layer of fabric is easier to handle.

Fabric is fragile and you may pull some threads if not using the right size needle. I would advise to use a size 80 (or 70).

Did you know that when using a small-size needle, you must use a lightweight thread? It’s logical, but I didn’t know so far. I’ll need to stock up on lightweight threads if I carry on sewing lightweight fabrics. I only own all-purpose threads.

A not-so-traditional STAN shirt

So, I have a hidden button placket shirt that can easily be dressed up or down. The joy of navy blue.

I loved stitching the buttonholes early in the process. Less stress at the end! I do have a wonderful sewing mahcine (Janome 6700P), but buttonholes are very stressful for me, especially on shifty fabrics, even if they’re always interfaced.

The continuous binding is rather narrow and can be tricky to handle.

My sewing machine comes with special professional foot and plate, called HP. Both helped me so much not having the fabric shifting under the plate and the narrow foot was of great help when navigating the curves of my son’s Waufarer bag.

Viscose challis is great for the multiple gathers on the shoulder and yoke.