{Pattern Test} Sequoia Cargo Pants and Shorts, Itch to Stitch

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Yeah, I’m back to the sewing world with a wonderful new pattern by Itch to Stitch. The Sequoia Cargo Pants and Shorts pattern is just another of the many wonderful patterns Kennis made for us.

Testing pants/shorts pattern is always a challenge. Not because of the pattern in itself (we all know that Kennis is a top-notch pattern designer), but because our bodies are unique and need to be carefully addressed!!!

I made 4 muslins to try and find the alterations I needed to make the pattern fit my curves.

Let’s talk a bit about the pattern first then I’ll tell you more about my alterations.

 

The Pattern

The pattern is a layered pattern and as such it is very easy to blend sizes if needed. The inspiration behind the Sequoia Cargo Pants is, obviously, hiking and trekking and twill/Ripstop/Denim can be used to sew them.

A lot of pockets are available and they are closed by metallic snaps.

The waistband is a one-of-a-kind waistband with woven+ribbing+elastic…so COMFY!!!

I sew my Sequoia Cargo Pants out of some non-stretch middle-weight denim from Driessenstoffen. Extremely easy to sew and I just used my denim needle for topstitching (after a good-old whack with a hammer on thick corners!!!).

I used my Vario from Prym to put the snaps. Oh, I just LOOOVE that tool! I wish I had black snaps in my stash, but alas, none available so I put silver ones…at least, I can be seen in the dark 😆

You can sew leg straps on the side, but I left them out because rolling up this denim would have ended in a big tube of fabric around the calves and would have been rather uncomfortable.

Since the weather was rather dull, I paired my Sequoia with my Jacqueline Hoodie. It makes for a casual look I really like, especially when living in the countryside.

 

My Alterations

Sewing for oneself is not for the faint heart! We all have a unique body and sometimes, you find that you have short legs/long torso/big calves/etc…so what??? That’s who you are and sewing for yourself is a way to make you look good in garments that do fit you.

So let’s start!!

I sewed a size 10 at the waist blended to a size 12 below. In retrospect, I should have stick to a size 8 waist blended to a size 12 below.

I raised the back crotch 1″. I should have raised it 3/4″ because now the waistband is not parallel to the ground…

I shortened the legs at the shorthen/lengthen lines, 1/.2″ twice.

I made a knock-knee adjustment, using the X-adjustement (1/2″).

I shortened the inner back seam by 1/2″. I should have done 1″.

I flattened the hip curve and kind of lengthened it, because my hips are rather flat there (think shelf-hips…).

All in all, I’m rather pleased with my alterations, even if I know they need some tweaking.

 

Yes or No?

A great big YES!!! I will definitely sew other Sequoias, with a bunch of new alterations because I really like the look of these pants. I will also take care not to mess up with the side pockets sewing lines because they are totally off on my pants!!!

 

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