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That’s the story of a dress that I would have loved to wear.
A pattern by Itch to Stich* thus a pattern perfectly drafted. A ponte roma* with a nice weight and drape. They were meant for each other. But we didn’t match.
Kathryn, a top or dress
That’s a rather old Itch to Stitch* pattern. It still has all the features of any ITS pattern: PDF layered file, carefully-written instructions, US sizing from 00 to 20 (nowadays, ITS patterns are more inclusive, ranging from 00 to 40).
Kathryn features a pleated neckline with a empire waist.
The pattern is meant for knits. The front bodice is lined whereas the back is finished by invisible bias.
Let’s see what didn’t work for me with this pattern.
A list of bad choices
To be honest, when I received the ponte roma* from Minerva, I found that my pattern choice (a knit blazer like the La Paz*) wouldn’t work at all. This fabric was too fluid and it was also slightly shiny.
It took me 2 weeks before making up my mind: it would work well with the Kathryn dress and I would have my 2022 Little Black Dress. That’s a funny tradition I’ve started some years ago and you can see my makes here.
The fabric* was pleating well, I had some lightweight black fabric for the lining, everything was supposed to go well.
First snag: finding the right size. My fabric was below the stretch percentage recommended. I should have sewn 8 Bust, 6 Waist, and 8 Hips. I opted to sew a straight size 10 to account for the 40% stretch instead of the 60%. I think I was right
Second snag: How on earth could I alter the bodice with such an intricate design? I can’t show the whole pattern piece here because of copyright, but the pleats make the pattern piece really tricky to work with in 2D. As a consequence, I didn’t adjust anything on the shoulders and back, leaving me with a huge gaping at the top back.
Third snag: Well, not a real snag, but the designer opted to finish the top back with binding and I just hate that with all my heart.
No…It’s not for me…
Actually, neckline pleats and empire waist do not do well with my silhouette.
I do like the skirt though. The weight of the ponte roma makes it fall nicely.
As I said earelier, sewing is not always smooth sailing, you learn along the way!
