27 February 2022

A trench coat for 2022

* This article may contain affiliate links.

Trench coat patterns are like coat patterns: plenty of them available on the market!

But I know what I want and I hope to find the perfect pattern, the one that will make me want to sew it.

I want my trench coat to have….

…a lining.

That automatically excludes Deer and Doe’s Luzerne. I don’t feel like drafting a lining.

Same for the lovely Robson coat by Sewaholic. What a pity, I loved its curved collar.

Orageuse has the Londres pattern but 1. it’s not lined and 2. it’s only belted, no button.

I want a back vent and a shaped silhouette. So long, Tracy from Stylearc.

Same for Prue, still from StyleArc. It also has raglan sleeves, that I find tricky to fit.

My ideal trench coat pattern should have front and back flaps.

I also want sleeve tabs. Shoulder tabs would be a bonus (but that point is easier to modify and draft).

Not too long so as not to trip on it and it could also shorten me.

And, please, with seam allowances included. So no Magnesium from Ivanne S.

Does that mean it’s a doomed quest? Not really…

Trench coat patterns that (mostly) fit the bill

Isla (Named Clothing)

double-breasted button front
fully lined
front and back flaps
belted collar and sleeve tabs
welt pockets
EU 32-56

Isla is a tad on the long side, but there will be muslins so I can adjust the length at that step.

— straight shape, no princess seam or other front seam.

Chilton (Cashmerette)

single-beasted front
fully lined
front and back flaps
princess seams
sleeve tabs
welt pockets
2 lengths
back vent on the longer version
US 12-32 (PDF) and cup sizes C to H

— Ouch, I’m a B cup.

— I love the overall shape of the Chilton, but the single-breasted front kind of throw me off.

Taylor (Rebecca Page)

double-breasted front
fully lined
front and back flaps
shaping at the waist
welt or patch pockets
back vent
2 lengths
optional hood
XXS to 5XL

Taylor has many interesting options, especially the hood..

— After having read some reviews, it seems the bottom is a bit flared and enhances the hips. I’d prefer a straighter hem.

So, did I make up my mind about the ideal trench coat pattern?

My heart is torn between the Isla and the long Chilton.

If I could, I would sew both. But I can’t afford buying two patterns that are rather expensive: $18 for the Chilton and 18 euros for the Isla. I will also have more to spend for muslin, fabric/lining, buttons, interfacing, etc.

I would love to sew both, really, but for now, I may choose the long Chilton even if it’s only a single-breasted version of a trench coat and the cup size starts at cup C. That means some alteration, but I’m used to it.

I still have time to make up my mind. I enjoy taking time to assess future patterns. Slow-sewing is great too!