Home Needles and Threads The purple Montana shirt

The purple Montana shirt

-a design by Itch to Stitch-

by Elsa

Let’s say we could visit Montana…oh, wait…we can’t…We’ll have to wait.

So let’s pretend with this gorgeous Montana pattern*.

Montana shirt, La Casa Cactus

The Montana shirt pattern

This is a loose-fit pattern, be warned!

If you prefer slim-fit patterns, you won’t like the Montana. I wasn’t so keen on it when I tested it back in 2018.

Montana shirt, La Casa Cactus

But, this time, I wanted this loose fit so that pattern was just what I needed.

This is not a beginner-friendly pattern because of many technical features:

  • collar and collar stand
  • flat-felled seams
  • tower-style button placket

You will need time ahead of you, with penty of seams to baste by hand first.

However, no hand-sewing on the yokes since Kennis uses the burrito roll method to hide the seams.

Montana shirt, La Casa Cactus

Berry checks for my Montana

Because I was set on a lumberjack shirt, I coudn’t pass this awesome Robert Kaufman flannel*. It is referenced as ‘Mammoth Brushed Cotton Flannel’ and the color is ‘Berry’.

I did quite a good job at matching the prints. The session before cutting was intense, to say the least. It took me almost 2 hours to check that things will match!

Check that all the pieces will fit in the 110 cm width. You’ll need more for plaid matching.

Montana shirt, La Casa Cactus

I used both size chart and finished measuremetn chart to assess which size I’d cut. I chose a straight size 6. I wanted a loose shirt, not a tent!

Technical features

Tower-style sleeve plackets were easier this time because 1. I force myself to sew them more and 2. I used Wondertape to glu-baste them in place.

Montana shirt, La Casa Cactus

Flat-felled seams were long to sew, but they give such a beautiful inside that they were worth the time spent.

Basting thread is very convenient. That’s a rather thick thread that breaks easily when you pull it after basting.

Tip: the side/sleeve seam is sewn in one go. It will be easier if you sew from the hem to the wrist.


Montana shirt, La Casa Cactus

You can absolutely sew traditional seams, with the hem allowance finish you prefer.

I’m quite pleased with my flannel Montana* and my plaid matching is good!

* This article may contain affiliate links.


mimimust 15 March 2022 - 18 h 26 min


Elsa 15 March 2022 - 18 h 44 min

Thank you!



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