It’s been a long time since I sewed a shirt. My all-time favorite is the Bonn from Itch to Stitch.
I had already sewn it about 2 years ago so I already had the pattern altered to my taste.
I got some luxurious viscose from Atelier Brunette thanks to my collaboration with Mondial Tissus.
To change from plain long sleeves, I chose to sew the 3/4 length with a flounce at the hem.
No compromise with the Bonn pattern
Kennis, the brain behind the Itch to Stitch designs, offers patterns that are perfect in terms of instructions and designs.
She masters wovens as well as knits and every time I sew one of her patterns, I’m amazed at how well they are drafted. Her finishing techniques are top-notch, her pattern pieces are trued, and the fit is, well, spot-on (once you get the fit for your unique body done).
See how the flounce’s seam allowance is done? It’s a flat-felled seam. No ugly seam allowance showing when you move your arm. She even changed her SA there.
All of the above explains why she’s one of the few I still test patterns for.
Just input “Itch to Stitch” in the search bar on my blog and you’ll get a glimpse of how many of her designs I’ve tested.
And I’m not done…she still has a lot to offer…just saying…stay tuned!
Let’s get back to our Bonn: either a dress or a shirt, with options for the sleeves.
My favorite feature is the curved hem that lengthens the leg.
Bonn and the viscose Shine “Night”
Viscose is equal to “slippery” in my syllabus! I starched it a bit and it helped (a bit!).
You can’t pass on the fusible interfacing with viscose. I used Vilene G700.
I really fought with the collar on that one. The viscose got the best of me!
My sewing tip would be to fuse some tiny bits of interfacing along the neckline because, even with a line of staystitching, my neckline grew a bit.
I made the most of my Wondertape. That’s great to prevent pin holes in such a thin fabric. I really need to buy silk pins if I want to carry on sewing lightweight fabrics.
I used a size 80 Microtex needle and it went really well.
Instead of sewing 5 buttons as instructed, I sewed 7. These are really tiny buttons (10 mm) and their color change with the light. Terribly pretty!
The expanding sewing gauge helped me to get even spacings between them. Such an awesome tool.
I hope that you enjoyed reading about my journey in sewing that new Bonn shirt. I like when a pattern offers options for either the bodice and/or the sleeves. The 3/4 length with the flounce will come in handy for the holiday season.
List of purchase
Pattern: Bonn shirt and dress
Fabric: Atelier Brunette’s Viscose Shine “Night”
Notions : Vlieseline G700 and Atelier Brunette’s buttons Quartz (the “Night” shade seems to be out of stock at present)
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