Here I am again on the testing scene with the new pattern by pm patterns, namely the Billie jacket. Oh, Billie, you are to me the most perfect mid-season jacket with your mandarin stand-up collar.

 

I had so much fun finding the right zipper (Ma Petite Mercerie) to go with this jacquard and I really enjoyed the two-tone sleeve and shoulder yokes.

 

The Billie Jacket

What I love the most about Billie is that it is fully-lined. So much better than Hong-Kong finish or serged seam allowances. Karine explains those steps to add the lining thoroughly with detailed instructions and line drawings.

The Billie pattern offers two versions: one with a centered zipper and one with an off-center zipper, like a Perfecto jacket.

The princess seams on the front and back help alleviate a boxy effect other jackets may have. It’s very feminine.

The center back is a little higher at the hem for a more actual look.

Cherry on the cake: the brand new size range is in full effect here with the pattern going from EU 34 to EU 52. Hello, curvy lovely ladies, we can now wear pm patterns garments!!!!

 

My Billie Jacket

I chose a jacquard fabric I had in my stash. My plan was to cut the shoulder yokes and bottoms of the sleeves out of  pleather…but I had already used the latter to the last bit (and didn’t remember…!). Looking at the wrong side of my fabric, I found that those little crosses would complement the dots on the right side nicely.

The lining is a really bright and funky pink silk dupion (I can’t remember where I got it, but it was too small to do anything else than lining this jacket!). I used some sateen to line the sleeves, because dupion is not silky enough.

 

I cut a size 44 for bust and waist, graded to a size 46 for the hips. Actually, I should have sticked to a size 42 bust and waist blended to a size 44 for the hips (my body shape has a bit changed since I started yoga practice last year…yeah!).

I didn’t change the length of the shoulder seam and, as per usual, it’s a bit long on me. I really need shoulder pads!!!

 

Yeah or Nay?

YEAH!!! I already have another one in my mind. I want to use on of those precious zippers (I say “precious” because they are extremely expensive  zippers, but soooo cuuuute!).

I plead guilty of wanting to sew a lined jacket to show off a zipper….

I will sew another center-front zipper Billie, in size 42-44 with a shortened shoulder seam (that means modifying all the pieces along the shoulder seams…!).

I will also have to find the right fabric and linnig that pair well with the zipper!!!

 

Pattern: Billie Jacket, pm patterns, PDF and paper

Size range: du 34 au 52

Fabrics: any non stretch fabric for jacket (linen, jacquard, denim, etc)