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The Laon shirt

- a pattern by Itch to Stitch-

by Elsa

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The Laon pattern

Designed by Itch to Stitch*, this is a layered PDF pattern available in US sizes 00-40 with cups ranging from A to DD.

This pattern is more for the seamstress who is rather experimented or one who likes a challenge. You’ll learn how to sew a collar with a stand, princess seams, darts, etc.

Liberty and linen mix

I had this beautiful cotton-linen sitting on my shelves, waiting for the right project. At first I had thought about sewing a culotte, but with it being so see-through, I prefered not!

I first sewed a muslin in size 8B, with the placement of the apex of the princess seams in mind. Actually, the apex was good and it was the back that had a lot to say.

I adjusted under the back yoke, doing a sort of sway-back adjustment, but not in the small of my back but higher. It really reduced the length and it was so much better.

I also shortened the shoulder length and adjusted the slope of the shoulder. I’m so used to it that it’s a no-brainer now. 

The fabric was cute, but it was missing a pop of color. I added some Liberty lawn I had in my remnants box.

The hem is my favorite type of hem. It lenghthens the leg and it’s easy to sew if you proceed as follows:

  • serge/overock the raw edge
  • press the first fold
  • I don’t press the second fold. Instead, I turn the second fold from the right, sewing it little by little. I master the curve best when proceeding like this and I’ve never had a flipping hem afterwards.

I’ll probably wear a caraco underneth because that shirt is really see-through!

And linen…pressed and already wrinkled….aaaargh!

I think that I’ll sew other Laon* shirts soon because it’s a timeless pattern with a twist thanks to the double darts at the back and the princess seams.

It’s also a good way to practice bust alterations with the apex placement or how to adjust the back.

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