Itch to Stitch: Chai Shirt and Dress

I’m back with Itch to Stitch’s newest pattern, the Chai Shirt and Dress. First time sewing a shirt for me with collar/collar stand (and many buttonholes…more about that later!). I really need to add to my stash of wovens because what I had left was a pretty floral (remnant of one of my DD’s skirts!) and some matte gold poplin from Creavea.

The bodice is fitted through the bust and waist, feminine gathers are just under the bust. Because of the fit, you may…should…MUST sew muslins. I muslined a 8B bust blendend to a 10 hips, but there was gaping at the apex…my next move was then to sew a 8C blended to a 12 with a shortened bodice and there we go, a cute floral top to go with a white skirt or a pair of denim (like the Liana Jeans…I really need to buy more stretch denims to sew at least 2 pairs of Lianas!).

The other adjustment I made was to space the buttonholes differently, using my Simflex Expanding Gauge I bought in the USA when we visited Disneyworld last October (I’m not ashamed to say that I had a big box of sewing goodies from Wawak waiting for me at the reception desk…so much cheaper than buying stuff in France!). That’s why we sew: sewing alterations to make it fit.

Look at the lovely earrings from Bronze-N-Roses! They are my daughter’s, not mine, unfortunately!

 

My Janome misbehaved on the buttonholes: it really didn’t like the change in the number of layers at the waistband (see me unpicking buttonholes…?) and the needle also got stuck ON THE LAST button…

This project is a bit demanding, but I managed to get it done in about 6-7hours. I still need to master the skill of the junction collar stand/bodice, but I don’t sew collars a lot…! So sewing tips for this part are welcome!

Actually, what took me the most time was sewing the binding to the armholes. I did my own bias thanks to Kennis’ instructions (included in the booklet, but you can also find her tutorial here).

 

Pattern: Chai Shirt and Dress, Itch to Stitch

Sizes: 00 to 20 (Cups A to DD)

Fabrics: poplin, lightweight denim, chambray (+interfacing and buttons)

Difficulty: intermediate +

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