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Kennis made it! She drafted a fully-lined trench-coat. Yeah! Named Acari*, it can easily compete against a well-known brand.
I was so happy to test it since I had been so disappointed with what was already available on the market.
- Acari pattern*
- Cotton twill*
- Lining
- Interfacing*
- Buttons* (#9 is my color reference)
- Belt buckles*
- Eyelets* (+ tool*)
- Shoulder pads*
- Sleeve heads*
An oversized trench-coat
Available in US sizes ranging from 00 to 40, the Acari pattern* comes with a Full Bust option if you need it.
Strom flap and gun flap are optional, but they do make the look! The back vent is great for you to walk gracefully since the fit is straight.
Acari* is fully-lined (and it uses the bagging method for no visible seam between main and lining). Thin shoulder pads and sleeve heads add to the shape.
The lovely welt pockets are closed by a button and, for once, I was so happy with how they turned out.
The two-part sleeves can be cinched with optional sleeve bands. Same for the aist, wwith a homemade belt. You’ll learn how to make one with eyelets and tool and it’s fun.
Bright purple Acari !
My plan was to sew an iconic beige trench-coat. But I saw this discounted cotton twill* in a bright pruple and I instantly changed my mind. The discount helped because this project is a fabric hog: I needed 3m80!
Now, onto the lining. I couldn’t get plaid fabric out of my mind as lining. I stumbled upon a print-on-demand e-shop and got this lovely cotton sateen printed in purple and black plaid. I chose sateen instead of their lining fabric, because the latter was too lightweight for my taste (65g/m2 compared to 110g/m2 for the cotton sateen).
Next were buttons and buckles. I was pretty sure I wanted dark colors. But I needed buttons in 2 different sizes along with buckles in 2 different sizes, all of these being of the same color. Everything was found on Aliexpress*.
When you plan to sew coats or any outerwear, the cost of fabrics and notions is rather high. So I thought that I should detail how much I paid (without shipping):
- cotton twill: 34.54 euros (40cm remaining, ideal for a bag!))
- lining: 24.75 euros
- interfacing: 13.49 euros (tiny bits remaining)
- buttons/buckles/eyelets/tool: 19.08 euros (remain eyelets/tool/buckles/buttons)
- shoulder pads and sleeve head by the yardet cigarettes: 5.90 euros (remain sleeve head, about 3/4 yd)
- thread: 2.95 euros (remains)
You now understand the purpose of sewing a muslin before cutting your good fabric. Otherwise, you may throw 100 euros in the wind.
You can cut on costs by using your stash. I already had the shoulder pads/sleeve heads and thread…!
My own Acari and its adjustments
Since it was a pattern test, I dutifully followed the size chart and cut a straight size 8.
Looking at my muslin, I saw that I needed 1.5cm taken off the shoulder length (narrow shoulder adjustment).
Then I noticed too much fabric between the shoulder and the bust. I deicded to try a new adjustment: I petite’d the armhole and got rid of that extra fabric.
I followed this excellent tutorial and got rid of 0.5cm on both front and back.
Don’t forget to adjust the flaps as well.
I also lengthened the sleeves (+2.5cm) to have them cover the first knuckles.
I lowered the pockets a bit, but I regret it. They’re a bit too low now.
Will I sew an Acari again?
Undoubtedly because that’s a timeless pattern and I learnt a lot. The welt pocket and back vent instructions are top-notch and I’ll use them for other less-instructional patterns.
If using a fabric with more drape, I’ll probably size down. I’ll feel better in a size 6.
My plan is to sew an Acari* in a gorgeous wool blend (with a plaid lining again).